1990 Petrus, Pomerol, Bordeaux

The 1990 Petrus remains incredibly young, one of the least evolved wines of the vintage along with Montrose and Beausejour-Duffau). This dense ruby/purple-coloured effort is beginning to hint at the massive richness and full-bodied intensity lurking beneath its wall of tannin. The vintage’s sweetness, low acidity, and velvety tannins are present in abundance, and the wine is massive in the mouth as well as incredibly pure and well-delineated. I thought it would be drinkable by now, but it appears another 5-10 years will pass before it begins to reach its plateau of maturity. This wine is capable of lasting at least four more decades. An incredible achievement

Drink 2014 - 2054

Bright crimson. Surprisingly light nose when just decanted with a hint of putty. Something like woodsmoke ashes. Big, sweet and mouth-filling. Almost tarry. It's much bigger and bolder than any other 1990. Massive constitution but some slightly dry tannins on the finish. It's a little bit more like an assault than a caress compared to the Cheval Blanc 1990). It should be one of the longest-living 1990s. 

Drink 2002 - 2030

Tasted at the Petrus dinner at Hide restaurant in London and at Epure restaurant in Hong Kong.

The 1990 Petrus is a great Pomerol, albeit one that has levelled off in terms of quality during its evolution, so that there is now a clear gap between itself and the 1989. This bottle has that same gorgeous raspberry and mulberry nose, sensual and warm, and the eucalyptus component is a little more noticeable vis-a-vis previous bottles. The palate is smooth and sensual, fatter than the 1989, if not quite as well defined. It boasts unerring purity and great consistency, a Rubenesque Petrus that is a joy to behold.

Drink 2020 - 2035

Black-ruby to the rim. Remarkably vibrant red and black fruit, mineral, and liquorice nose has an almost Chambolle-like framboise tang to it. Massive on the palate; tremendous extract. As dense as this is now, it already shows remarkable clarity and depth of flavour. Powerful structure and length, with extraordinary subtlety of flavour.

This is a legendary Petrus, and I have scored 100 points in the past. Today, it’s still showing its greatness with aromas of dark fruit, black olives, hot stones and wet concrete. It’s full-to medium-bodied and shows medium, velvety tannins that give the wine backbone and composure. It’s always changing in the glass, giving fruit and earth undertones all the while. A vibrant and vivid wine that talks to you.