1984 Planteray, Clarendon, 40-Year-Old, Rum, Jamaica (57.2%) (70cl+3cl)

It is almost unheard of to taste rum after four decades of ageing. And it takes a spirit of exceptional character to stand up to such extended interaction with oak. Luckily, Clarendon produces some of the most uncompromising distillates anywhere. The first 35 years of maturation were spent sweltering in Jamaica, nurturing and fuelling the intensity and exceptional depth of the pot-still rum. This was then masterfully followed by five years in ex-Cognac casks in the comparatively cooler climate of the Charente in South-West France. 

Summarising how this extraordinary old rum smells and tastes is nearly impossible. It is an impolite, unrepentant assault upon the senses – a forthright enquiry into what you, the drinker, are truly capable of. A late evening in a tropical climate comes to mind as aromas and flavours swoop, soar, buzz and collide like so many birds, bats and bugs. Sour camphor, fried plantains, coconut (both fresh and toasted), treacle tart and blackened, smoked meat are a few of the things that flashed across my olfactory bulb. But mainly, I was clinging on and grinning through this practically never-ending ride. Will you ever taste anything like this ever again? Will I? 

Rob Whitehead, Spirits Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd