The Macallan, M Black Decanter, 2023 Release, Speyside, Single Malt Scotch Whisky (46%)

Part of The Macallan’s M Collection, this whisky is matured in Sherry-seasoned, black-ended casks that once held peated spirit. Peat played a key role in Macallan’s early history, though its use faded as the distillery’s style evolved – making this a rare modern return to that smoky, historic profile. It’s presented in an individually numbered Lalique decanter made from black crystal, one of the most challenging materials in a glassblower’s repertoire.

The nose opens with crisp apple and juicy pear mingling with zesty citrus peel, all lifted by a gentle breeze of light peat. Beneath this brightness lies a richer layer of sweet, sticky dates and a soft hum of smouldering embers that hint at what’s to come. The palate reveals candied orange peel and charred white peach, balanced by the richness of honey-glazed figs and plump sultanas.

A velvety wave of dark chocolate flows in, bittersweet and dense, joined by warming peat and the spicy prickle of crystallised ginger. The finish is long and satisfying, with peat smoke gently curling around lingering notes of dried fruit and a final, fleeting echo of singed citrus zest.

Rob Whitehead, Spirits Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd