2023 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux

90% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Sémillon and 5% Sauvignon Gris. 36 hl/ha. Cask sample.

Initially discreet then opens to reveal floral, citrus and vanilla notes. Large on attack with plenty of succulent fruit, then drive and persistence on the finish. An extra edge of ripeness compared with many but freshness as well. Very much in the house style.

Drink 2025 - 2032

The 2023 Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc is quite the extrovert. Apricot, passion fruit, mint, tangerine peel and pineapple all soar out of the glass. Medium in body, with gorgeous texture, the 2023 is quite showy. I imagine it will drink well with minimal cellaring.

Drink 2026 - 2037

A blend of 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Semillon, and 5% Sauvignon Gris, the white 2023 Smith Haut Lafitte is aging in 50% new oak. After a swirl or two, it prances out with gregarious notes of white peaches, fresh pineapple, and green mangoes, opening out to underlying hints of lime blossoms, wet slate, and fresh ginger. The medium-bodied palate is satiny and vivacious, with a racy backbone and a long, exotic fruit-laced finish. Yum!

Drink 2027 - 2034

Aromas of white fruits, crisp orchard fruits, spices, smoke, spring flowers and pear introduce the 2023 Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc, a medium to full-bodied, layered and textured wine with a fleshy core of fruit and racy acids, concluding with a mineral, fresh and long finish highlighted by delicate notes of thyme and garrigue. Comprising 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Sémillon and 5% Sauvignon Gris and matured in 50% new oak, this blend is among the finest white wines produced at this address.

Drink 2025 - 2045

The 2023 Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc was picked from August 23 to September 9 at 36hL/ha and matured in 50% new oak. It has a reticent bouquet at first, requiring a few swirls of the glass to reveal touches of orange pith, peach skin, wild fennel and light pressed white flower scents. The palate is very well balanced with a lovely creamy texture, counterbalanced by the taut line of acidity. Very poised and focused, it's somehow almost Corton-Charlemagne-inspired on the finish perhaps due to the umami). This is a seriously fine white Pessac-Léognan.

Drink 2028 - 2048

Another exceptional vintage for Smith-Haut-Lafite Blanc. It’s so complex and structured, offering a palate that feels similar to the texture of a red wine with a velvety tannin structure. There’s a lot going on here. Spice, crushed seashell and citrus blossom. Salty, too. Weightless and so long. 90% sauvignon blanc, 5% sauvignon gris and 5% semillon.

Distinctive as ever, right at the top of what Pessac Léognan Blanc can deliver. Structured, fleshy white peach and pear, waves of salted cracker and sage, creamy texture, great length, just a brilliant wine. A buy.

Drink 2025 - 2038