2020 Barolo, Gramolere, Fratelli Alessandria, Piedmont, Italy

Monforte d’Alba. One hectare of Gramolere, with vines aged up to 50 years, came from Alessandria’s mother, née Manzone. Until 2000, it had been managed by her brother Giovanni Manzone; 2000 was the same year in which they acquired an additional hectare of Gramolere. First vintage 2001.

Just mid-ruby. Stylistically very different from Verduno. It has a similar balsamic character and is a tiny bit richer on the nose with a distinct mineral core. Compact fruit that is still closed and has a layer of sandy tannins that follow the fruit seamlessly. Elegant, fresh and long, it will reveal itself fully in the next couple of years.

Drink 2026 - 2038

The 2020 Barolo Gramolere is laced with hints of dried cherry, menthol, spice, dried herbs, and a whole range of balsamic inflections that add character. Like all the 2020s here, the Gramolere shows good vineyard character but in a decidedly slender, light style relative to most years.

I tasted both the 2019 and 2020 vintages with Vittore Alessandria. The comparisons were quite telling. From bottle, the 2019s have turned out as I expected. It’s a stellar vintage here. The 2020s, however, are quite a bit lighter in body and overall structure. The Nebbiolo harvest took place between October 8 and 11. Alessandria gave the 2020s 30 days on the skins. Ageing was done in a cask, and the wines were bottled in December 2023.

Drink 2026 - 2038

From vines planted in sandier soils in Monforte D’Alba at an elevation of 400 meters, the 2020 Barolo Gramolere is a bright ruby colour and offers deeper aromatics in its generous notes of candied raspberries, ripe, sweet fresh herbs, candied flowers, and sappy, mossy earth. It’s tight and tension-packed on the palate, with a bright, citrus-driven, pithy texture, hints of mint and balsamic, and a clean, tea-leaf-noted finish.

Drink 2026 - 2040