2019 Bâtard-Montrachet, Grand Cru, Marc Colin & Fils, Burgundy

Two barrels. Up to 2018, Damien has made the wine in one new barrel and a one-year-old. From 2019 he has switched to two barrels of one-year-old. Pale lemon colour, with a very backward nose. This is the new style of Bâtard, that is to say intensely vibrant rather than four square’ to quote an esteemed former colleague. This 2019 Bâtard-Montrachet from Marc Colin has magnificent density behind it but is still not the most massive example around. I really like the measured infiltration of acidity, this is going to make a fine bottle.

The 2019 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru matured in around 50% new oak two barrels only). It has a very clean and precise bouquet with scents of oyster shell and crushed rocks, later a discrete eucalyptus note emerges loitering in the wings. The palate is well balanced with a powerful opening, and a richer, almost decadent in style. In fact, Damien Colin fetched a second bottle for me to taste. That was different, sans the eucalyptus scent on the nose and demonstrating more strictness and greater persistency in the mouth. The difference originated from the pre-prepared sample rather than the wine itself and based on the second example, it shows enormous potential.

Drink 2024 - 2044

A cool, pure, very pretty and stylish nose freely offers up its array of various floral elements that include rose petal and acacia blossom as well as a variety of spice nuances on the pear and apple scents. The gorgeously textured, intense and concentrated larger-scaled flavours possess superb depth and persistence in the beautifully well-balanced finale. This is really quite classy and is more a Bâtard of refinement than raw power and muscle.

Drink from 2031 onward