2018 Meursault, Perrières, 1er Cru, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Burgundy

Fermented in 350-litre oak. Lower reaches of the vineyard. Barrel sample.

There is a strong mineral overlay to the fruit here. Dusty and chalky like stone dust, gently herbal. Then, an assault of fruit on the palate. Intense citrus, almost apricot. Smash and grab in its intensity. And long. It's hard to move on from here.

Drink 2025 - 2038

Moderate reduction suppresses everything but whispers of floral and citrus. Otherwise, there is a bit less mid-palate density but more evident minerality and refinement to the middle-weight flavours that flash excellent length on the youthfully austere finale. This, too, needs to develop more depth, though given how tightly wound it is, it should have no trouble doing that over time.

Drink 2030

Crisp, clear colour with a green tint. This is magisterial rather than massive compared to the Charmes. The nose will need time, but once it can sense ripe fruit and some complexity. Apples and fresh plums have a really good structure to this and just a fraction of the residual. But all is well in place.

The 2018 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières exhibits notes of crisp orchard, citrus zest, freshly baked bread, toasted almonds, and nutmeg. Medium to full-bodied, racy, and incisive, it's a tightly wound, electric wine despite the warm, generous vintage. At this early stage, it is even more impressive than Pierre-Yves Colin's Chassagne Caillerets—something that isn't invariably the case.

Pierre-Yves Colin Morey's vines are in the lower, flatter part of Perrières, close to Les Charmes-Dessus, where the soils have a higher percentage of clay. The result is a classic Meursault, showing flavours of honey and baking spices, impressive concentration, some toasty oak and the pithy acidity that's a hallmark of the domaine's whites.

Drink 2022 - 2030