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2017 Pommard, Rugiens-Hauts, 1er Cru, Benjamin Leroux, Burgundy
- Red
- Dry
- Full Bodied
- Pinot Noir
Ready - at best
(Drink 2021 - 2038)
- Julia Harding MW
- 17/20
- Allen Meadows
- 90-92/100
- Jasper Morris MW
- 91-93/100
- Neal Martin
- 91-93/100
Product: 20178026781
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Description
Rugiens is arguably Pommard's greatest vineyard, of which the lower section is perhaps the finest, but Ben's plot is in the lower part of Rugiens-Hauts and thus very adjacent. This is a big, stern and meaty wine, with dense tannins, but perfume and rigour too. Very serious and age-worthy.
It is fair to say that Ben is very happy with 2017, describing it as the kind of vintage he would sign up for every year. The whites, he says, are beautiful, and not far from 2014 in style, with purity, finesse, great definition and balance. He describes the reds as pretty, appealing and with body to support ageing, while highlighting the importance of lower-yielding old vines for serious ageing. He eloquently explains that there is no ''black sheep'' in 2017, that no village has underperformed. For reason of space, the limited volumes of Grands Crus have not been included in this brochure. Since the 2014 vintage, all white wines are bottled under screwcap
Berry Bros. & Rudd
Colour Red
Sweetness Dry
Vintage 2017
Alcohol % 14%
Maturity Ready - at best
(2021 - 2038)
Grape List Pinot Noir
Body Full Bodied
Producer Benjamin Leroux
Critics reviews
Julia Harding MW 17/20
50% whole bunch. 20% new oak. From barrel.
Deep cherry red and intense cherry fruit on the nose. Really open and sweet on the nose especially for Pommard. Supple and juicy and with the savour and dark fruit of Pommard but a ripe roundness that is Rugiens, says Leroux. There’s peppery dark spice on the finish. Full of local character but in an elegant mode. Long.
Drink 2023 - 2032
Allen Meadows 90-92/100
A background application of wood sets off the interesting combination of earth and floral nuances to the red and dark currant aromas. There is both excellent punch and power to the bigger and more powerful flavours that also exude plenty of minerality on the youthfully austere and impressively persistent finish. Patience.
Drink from 2029 onward
Jasper Morris MW 91-93/100
Clear, bright, mid-purple. This is really lively, a high-class Pommard with some concentration, too. It builds beautifully at the back of the palate, with so much fruit that the structure sits very nicely surrounded by its fruit, along with a useful point of acidity.
Neal Martin 91-93/100
The 2017 Pommard Les Rugiens-Haut 1er Cru includes 50% whole bunch fruit this year. It has a mineral-driven, sea-cave-scented bouquet that is racy and vivacious. The palate is medium-bodied with plump, pure black fruit, a pitch-perfect line of acidity and a rich, generous finish that will make many people happy. Excellent.
Drink 2021 - 2029