2017 St Aubin, Les Frionnes, 1er Cru, Domaine Hubert Lamy, Burgundy

This is a typical Frionnes at this address. With old vines from 1935 planted on an east-facing limestone vineyard, this can be quintessentially “mineral”. It really works this year: the wine is compact yet energetic, not so much refreshing as galvanising. Drink 2023-2029.


This is another small harvest for Olivier. There was frost again in 2017 for the vineyards closest to Puligny and Oliviers detailed vineyard work on the vines badly frosted in 2016 has restricted this years yield as well. For some cuves, volumes in white for 2017 are half that of the already paltry 2016. Olivier began harvesting before his neighbours, which is not unusual, on 25th August, but he likes the style of the vintage, in particular the extra density on the palate. His reds he defines ascroquant (crunchy).