2014 Champagne Philipponnat, Clos des Goisses, Extra Brut

New release in late 2023 after being disgorged in March 2023. The product of a second cold, wet vintage. 2013 was a small, concentrated crop. 2014 was lighter and more 'classical'. 71% Pinot Noir, 29% Chardonnay.

Exciting, youthful wine with a strong umami character. Needs a bit more time to fully open out to show the pure glory of this single-vineyard wine.

Drink 2024 - 2034

I tasted the 2014 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses from a bottle disgorged a la volée, in other words with no dosage and no sulfur added. At this very early and unfinished stage, the 2014 appears to be a linear, focused Champagne built more on persistence and focus than body, which is to say very much in the style of the year. Of course, much can change with dosage. It will be interesting to see how things end up. The blend is 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay, done 64% in oak, 36% in steel, with no malolactic fermentation in any of the lots.

Drink 2024 - 2044

This is showing elegant and complex aromas of pie crust, cinnamon rolls, spiced apples and hazelnuts. Hints of mocha and berry crumble. Very creamy bubbles on the palate, with caressing pastry elements married to bright acidity. There’s richness, but it’s sleek and fresh at the end. 71% pinot noir and 29% chardonnay. Disgorged March 2023. 4.5g/L dosage. Drink or hold.

The 2014 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses, the latest rendition from this walled vineyard, reveals a fresh, energetic character with aromas of pear, peach, licorice, spices, white fruits, spring flowers and menthol. Medium to full-bodied, seamless and chiseled, this is a structured, tension-filled but ethereal Champagne with high acidity, sign of a cool-weather vintage. Although already thoroughly enjoyable, it should age well over the next 10 years. This is a blend of 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay, disgorged with 4.25 grams per liter dosage.

Drink 2023 - 2035

Made from 71% Pinot Noir and the rest Chardonnay, the 2014 Champagne Clos des Goisses Extra Brut takes on a very pretty and floral profile. Pouring a bright straw hue, it’s lifted with the perfume of cherry blossoms, wet stone, fresh berries, and sweet brioche. Full-bodied, though more linear compared to the 2013 vintage, it’s highlighted by a refined, chalky texture with a pillowy mousse, building to a ripe and rounded mid-palate and a long, elegant finish with a flourish of white pepper spice. Though it’s certainly not the most powerful vintage for the vineyard, it’s very attractive. It will benefit from another couple of years and continue to improve over the next two decades. Disgorged in March of 2023, with 4.5 grams per liter dosage.

Drink 2025 - 2045

From the 5.83-hectare walled vineyard in a cooler, 'classic' vintage for Champagne, giving this a finessed and charming expression. Baked pastry and soft lemon curd notes on the nose, smells inviting and softly floral - honeysuckle, jasmine, lemon and lime rind with some peach.

Juicy and so zesty straight away, bright, mouthwatering, scintillatingly fresh and lively, thrilling even, with tiny persistent bubbles that instantly froth and fill the mouth. Alive and energetic with lemon rind and juice, succulent green apples and strawberries, grapefruit and ginger bitterness with touches of salinity and graphite dotting the finish. This makes you instantly want another glass, but this has structure too and such a long finish.

No malolactic fermentation. Dosage 4.5g/l. Made by Charles Philipponnat and Thierry Garnier.

Drink 2023 - 2042