2005 La Tâche, Grand Cru, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Burgundy

This was already drinking absolutely beautifully, even though presumably it will gain layers and even greater complexity. But what a stunning amount of pleasure it gives, even at this early stage! My verbatim notes: Gorgeous, complete, wonderful pure cherry juice flavours, even though it will presumably close down. Already dense and layered but with beautiful freshness. 'Parp. Parp,' it seems to be saying, so eager is it to broadcast its charms.

Drink 2015 - 2030

The 2005 La Tache epitomizes the unique mysteries of Pinot not to mention the character of a great site), with its aromas of game, musk, iris, star anise, vanilla, allspice, and naturally also an abundance of sweet, ripe, implosively tiny-berried fruit. Imagine a black Riesling. 

On the palate, a vivid freshness of fruit, the pungency of spice and flowers, and the melting away of what, in point of analytical fact, are abundant tannins all engender an almost white wine dynamic of fruit-mineral call-and-response and explicit, incisive penetration of flavours to every recess of the mouth. 

This is a T.R. sort of wine – you just don’t feel the stick.

There is not much difference between the way this bottle showed and my original review from late 2007, other than the nose of this most recent experience, which is notably less exuberant. However, it remains just as kaleidoscopic and dazzling with its array of red and black cherry, cassis, plum, and subtle earth notes replete with beguiling Asian spice cabinet aromas and the essence of rose petals. 

The intense, potent and breathtakingly concentrated flavours possess a taut muscularity before culminating in a palate-coating finish of simply tremendous length. Not surprisingly, this is still structured to be chewy, yet it is never rustic or coarse because buckets of dry extract buffer the gorgeously detailed palate impression. 

As readers know, I often use the word Zen to describe the inner harmony of a great vintage of Romanée-Conti, but rarely with La Tâche, yet in 2005, the LT had this element of inner calm and grace as well. In sum, I remain confident that this huge but utterly classy and stylish wine will go down as one of the all-time incredible LTs, provided that you have the patience to wait, as it will be a very long-distance runner. 

Two bottles tasted in April 2016 showed some troubling signs of brett; however, I had these bottles in China, and it's possible that the storage and shipping were not what they should have been. 

Drink from 2030 onward