1983 Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac, Bordeaux

A cold and wet spring, during which the vine fell behind. But one of those miraculous summers came from June that made the greatest vintages. Around the September equinox, storms brought fears of rot because the grapes had suddenly swollen, and we were worried that the skins would burst, especially for the Merlot. Bacchus, however, merciful to the winegrowers, sent them a magnificent period of weather, allowing for a dream harvest without a rainy day, lasting from 30 September until mid-October.

The first of a trio of wines – 1983, 1985 and 1986 – served blind. Struck by a leafiness on the nose that I associate with some of the less successful 1985s at this stage in their lives, I foolishly plumped for 1985 when it was clearly the least impressive of the trio, and I had no memory of Lafite 1983. The wine was certainly polished, light, sweet and open – and now a bit skinny. There are probably enough pointers there to have steered me to 1983, but the most recent 1983 I tasted was Ch Margaux, which was famously successful in this vintage. This Lafite 1983 was pretty but was losing fruit. It had Lafite class but needed drinking.

This is a little more evolved than the other two 1980s wines in the lineup here. The 1983 vintage was a little more difficult in Pauillac than down in Margaux, but the evolution has been extremely slow and it still tastes hugely enticing, with cigar box and touches of underripe tea leaf notes balanced by some lovely soft cassis and brambly autumnal fruits edged with cold ash.

Drink 2018 - 2030

Finally, the 1983 Lafite is beginning to shed its tannin. The wine exhibits a deep ruby/garnet color with only a slight lightening at the edge. The intoxicatingly perfumed nose of lead pencil, pain grille, red and black fruits, minerals, and roasted herbs is provocative. In the mouth, this wine displays considerable body for a Lafite, plenty of power, and a fleshy, rich, sweet mid-palate. Long, elegant, plump, and surprisingly fleshy, this outstanding example of Lafite seems largely forgotten given the number of high quality vintages during the golden decade of the eighties.

Drink 1997 - 2030

Tasted blind at dinner at a nearby Pauillac château.

The 1983 Lafite-Rothschild is one of my favourite vintages of the decade, and this bottle served blind replicates its showing at their 150th anniversary vertical. At first, it feels slightly disjointed on the nose, but it coheres in the glass, offering lovely blackberry fruit, hints of pain d'épices, black truffle, and meat juices. The palate is beautifully balanced with fine-boned tannins, tobacco and morels. There’s a bit more white pepper on the finish of this bottle, though persistent as ever. What a wonderful Lafite-Rothschild that, at 40 years, continues to go strong.

Drink 2023 - 2040

This is Lafite. Prune and spices, with a cedar and wet tobacco character on the nose. Even tea. Full and rich with a dark China tea and cedar character. Just a hint of chocolate. Opens in the glass like a genie. Amazing.